Photo: Rita Newman
Gailtaler Speck g.g.A.
Record number: 9
Disclosure date
Speck (‘bacon’) has been produced in the Gailtal region since the fifteenth century.
Photo: BMLFUW/A...
Gailtaler Speck g.g.A.
(Gailtaler Speck PGI)
Abstract or claim
The special characteristics of Gailtaler speck are a result of:
- traditional knowledge and experience passed down from generation to generation, and
the upholding of traditional production methods and recipes,
- the use of pork from pigs fed with top-quality feed,
- the specific climatic conditions of the Gailtal region.
The slow ripening process gives Gailtaler speck its distinct aromatic flavour and long shelf-life.
The other essential factors that decide the quality of the bacon are the use of whole sides of bacon in the production of cured products, curing on traditional wooden ’cure tables’ using handed-down recipes, smoking, and the ‘smoke breaks’, when the bacon is brought into contact with fresh air.Traditional knowledge of the production of Gailtaler Speck according to its specification as a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) pursuant to EC Regulation 1241/2002 2002 OJ. L 181/4/2002.
Name of product, product class
Speck, meat products
Name of region
Gailtal, Carinthia, Austria
Field of search
Food and Agriculture
Name(s) of information provider
Gailtaler Speckverein
Names of applicant for title
Gailtaler Speck - Naturarena Kärnten
c/o Siegfried Lasser ju.
Eggerstraße 14
A-9620 Hermagor
Holder of knowledge or associated resources
Farmers and butchers of the Gailtal region
Grantee(s), holder(s), assignee(s) or owner(s) of title, if any
Gailtaler Speck - Naturarena Kärnten
Eggerstraße 14
A-9620 Hermagor
Descriptors
- History:
A very special culture of bacon production has evolved in the Gailtal region due to a combination of conditions associated with the natural landscape and historical developments.
The earliest evidence of livestock farming in the Gailtal region can be traced back to the Celtic era (200 BC to 100 AD). While it would most often be cattle and horses that were kept, pigs also featured. Evidence of this has emerged in the shape of bronze statues of both pigs and horses at Gurina, an ancient mining settlement in the Gailtal, north-east of Dellach.
The first indication of the knowledge of bacon is a decree (‘Capitulare de villis’) issued by Charlemagne in 812, which was also applied in Carinthia. The decree required, amongst other things, that the strictest standards of cleanliness should be observed when handling foodstuffs.
Production of speck in the Gailtal region has been documented since the fifteenth century through travel reports, descriptions of farming equipment and records of how farm labourers were being fed. (Examples include the translation of the travel diaries of Paolo Santonino, private secretary to the vicars of Aquilea and travelling companion to the Bishop of Caorle in the years 1485 to 1487).
The majority of households would have contained at least a few pigs. These would have served first and foremost as a way for people to cover their fat requirement at the time; fat from pigs was particularly well-suited to this purpose, as smoking and air-drying the meat meant it could be preserved for prolonged periods of time. It was a nourishing and extremely palatable source of energy which, in contrast to fresh meat, was available whenever you wanted it, year-round.
The livestock figures of the cadastral district estimates for the Gailtal region of 1832 clearly show that while pig fattening was not yet taking place on a large-scale basis, it was already being practiced with some skill.
In the years immediately following the First World War, promotional programmes were put in place to rebuild the agricultural sector, which had been adversely affected by the war.
During the Second World War, the number of pigs fell to a new low due to a lack of feedstuff and increased levels of slaughtering. Until the late 1940s, there was also a statutory obligation to supply bacon in place in the case of home slaughterings, to ensure the population at large was provided with a basic level of nutrition.
This obligation was only lifted in 1949, by an order from the Federal Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry and Nutrition of the Population.
The numbers of pigs did not return to pre-war levels until 1950.
In the 1980s and 1990s, the Gailtal region experienced an economic upswing, and succeeded in carving out a niche as a ‘culinary region’.
One ancient Gailtal tradition which continues to this day in the village of Kreuth bei Kötschach is so-called ‘Speckjagern’ or ‘bacon hunting’. During this ritual, the unmarried young men of the village gain entry to the houses by playing music, where tradition dictates they must be served bacon and bread. When doing so, the wife of the house will ensure only the very best pieces of bacon are offered, as otherwise she is sure to be the victim of malicious gossip.
- Region:
The Gailtal region, which takes its name from the River Gail, is an inner-Alpine valley running from East Tyrol to Carinthia.
The boundaries of the region are defined by the Gailtal Alps to the north, and the Carnic Alps, along the border with Italy, to the south.
The Gailtal is distinguished by broad, flat valley bottoms and mountain slopes that are often craggy.
The production area is limited to the municipalities of Kötschach-Mauthen, Dellach, Kirchbach, Gitschtal, Hermagor, St. Stefan im Gailtal, Nötsch im Gailtal, Feistritz an der Gail and Hohenthurn. Pigs used in the production of Gailtaler Speck PGI come from the Gailtal area, and other regions of Carinthia if necessary.
Climate and soil conditions:
The Gailtal is a region with special climatic conditions (an illyric climate).
The Gailtal is distinguished by orographic precipitations that form south of the Carnic Alps, and a second maximum precipitation in the autumn. These weather conditions are distinguished by warm, very humid air masses, frequently accompanied by humid and warm southern winds.
The Carnic Alps are also distinguished by their high levels of snowfall and long periods of snow cover along the northern slopes. As a result, the layers of vegetation are protected from frost and consequently the risk of dehydration by winter winds.
The area is marked out by balanced temperature and air humidity conditions, low level of fog formation in winter, and the presence of clearing winds from the south.
In spring and autumn, the Gailtal region, with Villach, registers sunshine duration of over 50 %.
The high level of rainfall and extensive duration of sunshine in the Gailtal have a particularly favourable effect on farming in the mountain pastures. The pastures are also located at lower altitudes than is the case in the Central Alps, as a result of which the favourable climate also produces a longer period of vegetation. This has a positive influence on growth conditions in the Alpine pastures.
Soil conditions and flora:
Geologically speaking, the Carnic region is a particularly diverse area with a wide range of different layers dating back to a range of different phases in the Earth’s evolution. The extent to which Early Palaeozoic rock masses occur mixed with younger layers of stone along Austria’s southern border is unique.
The geological conditions have a direct effect on the soil formation. Lightly crumbling stone layers which favour soil formation and geological layers with only shallow soils have led to different soil formations. For this reason, there is also a wide diversity of soil types, including rendzinas, rankers, Alpine pseudogleys and pseudogleyed brown soils.
- Gailtaler speck PGI:
Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
The meat used to produce Gailtaler speck PGI essentially comes from pigs from the Gailtal region. If demand for piglets or fattened pigs cannot be met from supply from the Gailtal, however, it is permissible to use pigs from other regions of Carinthia. If this is the case, only basic products produced in compliance with the production, quality and control standards guidelines laid down in the ‘Gailtaler Speck Richtlinien’ (‘Gailtaler Speck Guidelines) or guidelines specifying equally strict standards may be used. Examples of suitable basic products that are used include those of member organisations of the ‘ARGE Kärntner Schweineproduktion’ (‘Carinthian Pig Production Working Community’).
The following pig varieties are used in the production of Gailtaler Speck PGI: Landschwein (Landrace), Edelschwein, crossbreeds of Landrace and Edelschwein, Duroc pigs and crossbreeds from recognised Carinthian breeding programmes.
Typical varieties of meat pig are not permitted.
Production guidelines:
These guidelines regulate the origin and quality of the basic products and production process, define the product features, and contain instructions relating to quality assurance. Care is taken to ensure the processes employed by producers of Gailtaler Speck PGI can be controlled at all times, and that they remain in accordance with the guidelines.
Livestock owners are required to maintain an inventory record and tag their animals in order to keep the origin of each individual batch of bacon traceable.
They are also obligated to maintain a ‘Tierhalterprotokoll – Schweineprotokoll’ (‘Livestock Owner Protocol – Pig Protocol’), or a protocol specifying the same standards.
Breeding, feeding, slaughtering:
The animals must be fattened in accordance with the specifications of the production guidelines for Gailtaler Speck PGI.
Only high-value feedstuffs may be used which contribute to the desired slow growth of the animals. The feed used usually includes boiled peas, beans, wheat and skimmed milk, or whey accumulated during cheese production.
Corn and soya may only be added at levels below 10 % of dry matter. Animal meal, commercial kitchen waste, liquid feed with pure corn, fattening aids, anabolic steroids, hormones and performance enhancers are not permissible.
The bacon producers are obligated only to use pigs for bacon production that are at least six months of age, have a minimum slaughter weight of 120 kg, and a maximum average daily increase in weight of 750 grams.
Slaughterhouse operators are obligated to keep their premises and machinery in an orderly fashion, and guarantee the necessary levels of hygiene amongst personnel and during operation. Slaughterhouse operators or bacon producers are obligated to store carcasses in an orderly fashion until these are processed further.
Production:
The method of production is laid down in the Gailtaler Speck Guidelines.
Gailtaler Speck PGI is produced using fresh pork with a maximum pH value of 5.8. Whole sides of bacon are used, although the individual parts of a side – belly, loin, loinbelly, leg with rump and shoulder – can also be used if necessary.
The meat is dry-cured in an unpressed state using a mixture of cooking or curing salt, pepper, garlic and other herbs and spices (preferably ginger, coriander, cumin, bay leaf, pimento, paprika, rosemary, juniper or sugar) according to traditional recipes handed down over generations. This dry-curing means water is drawn out of the meat, minimising the risk of damaging micro-organisms developing. The meat is cured on traditional wooden cure tables or in tubs made of steel or plastic at a temperature of 4 – 10 °C and a relative humidity of about 70% for between one and four weeks. The cured meat is then left to hang to air-dry, before being exposed to aromatic smoke in smoking chambers at room temperature.
Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
Maturing:
After smoking, Gailtaler Speck is taken into the maturing room, where it is stored at a temperature of between 8 and 16 °C and relative humidity of 60 to 80 percent. Depending on the cuts of meat being matured, the process can last between 4 and 12 weeks. Air-drying brings about a weight loss of 30 – 40 % for meat with a 25 % fat content.
Flavour and appearance:
The outer colour of Gailtaler Speck PGI is golden-yellow, while the meat is an intense red, with a snow-white layer of fat, when cut. Gailtaler Speck PGI has a distinct aromatic flavour and tastes mildly salty.
It is of a firm consistency, with a gentle bite, and melts softly in the mouth.
Gailtaler Speck PGI is free of any unpleasant flavour.
Quality control and quality identification:
The quality features of Gailtaler Speck PGI are laid down in the Gailtaler Speck Guidelines, which have been worked out and decided by the ‘Gailtaler Speck – Naturarena Kärnten’ society with the help of experts and relevant specialist officials from the State Food Supervisory Authority and State Veterinary Service.
The Gailtaler Speck Guidelines are concerned not just with the production process in the narrower sense; they also address the origin and quality of the basic products, contain a detailed product description, quality assurance measures with an implemented control system, and regulations governing potential sanctions and labelling.
The bacon producers are obligated to maintain standards of quality and perform controls on their own bacon production, and to manage a ‘speck protocol’ in line with the Gailtaler Speck Guidelines or a similarly worded production protocol.
In its statutes on internal control, the ‘Gailtaler Speck - Karnische Region’ (‘Gailtaler Speck – Carnic Region’) society has specified that a control committee should be set up reporting the results of its control activities to the executive board at regular intervals. The job of the control committee is regularly to ensure that the guidelines are being complied with, and to control its members producing Gailtaler Speck PGI. The control committee has a ‘Good Manufacturing Practice Scheme’ available to it to help it in carrying out its work.
Bacon produced subject to the guidelines is identified by attaching a sticker, ribbon or similarly clear means of product identification to individual sides of bacon, or parts of those sides. This identification must give the producer and a control number in writing in an unalterable form. The control number is to be recorded in a production protocol (‘Speckprotokoll’) to be kept by the producer for presentation to the control bodies. This production protocol is to document that the regulations of the production process have been complied with for each batch of bacon.
The use of company logos or own names is permitted within the bounds of the production identification described above as long as the consumer is not misled in any way as a result.
Gailtaler Speck PGI produced by farmers on family farms bears a green seal, and Gailtaler Speck PGI produced by butchers bears a red seal.
- Marketing:
Food retailers, gastronomic outlets, the ’Gailtaler Speck-Käsestraße’ (a network of local inns and taverns celebrating the culture, gastronomy and history of the Gailtal region), and ’Gailtaler Speckfest’ (a festival held to enjoy the very best Gailtaler speck).
Connection with the geographical area and traditional knowledge:
- The unique flavour and aroma of Gailtaler Speck PGI are directly related to the
species of pig used, how the pigs are kept, the curing of the meat with salt
and the special climatic conditions that affect its maturing. The equable air
movement and low fluctuations in temperature and air humidity allow the product
to dry evenly.
- The production of Gailtaler Speck PGI is the result of traditional knowledge that
local people active in the field have passed on for generations. These include
traditional knowledge and experience of pig farmers (adjustment of farming to
the needs of the species, and the farming of pigs in the region), the know-how
of farmers and butchers, and experience of bacon producers.
- Utilisation:
Gailtaler Speck PGI is offered in various different forms, including the original Gailtaler Seitenspeck, juicy Gailtaler Schinkenspeck, traditional Gailtaler Karrespeck and spicy Gailtaler Bauchspeck.
Traditional speciality dishes made using the bacon include Frigga, made with bacon, eggs and cheese and often referred to as the Gailtaler national dish, and ‘Gailtaler Specksuppe’, a firey bacon soup made with paprika and schnaps.
- Protection:
The description of the specification for the registration as PGI is to be found in the Austrian Patent Office.
Key words
Food and agriculture, traditional knowledge, Austria, Carinthia, region, Gailtal, cured meats, bacon speck, Gailtaler Speck PGI
Bibliography /References
- Council Regulation (EEC) No 2081/92 Application for Registration: Art. 3.
- Das Klima des Exkursionsraumes
http://www.htw-dresden.de/~ws/alp2_exku/PDF/Klima.pdf
- Das Klima des Exkursionsraumes
http://www.kfunigraz.ac.at/geowww/exkursion/alpenex/klima.htm
- EINZIGES DOKUMENT. Verordnung (EG) Nr. 510/2006 des Rates zum Schutz
von geografischen Angaben und Ursprungsbezeichnungen für Agrarerzeugnisse
und Lebensmittel „GAILTALER SPECK“
http://www.patentamt.at/Home/Markenschutz/Herkunftsangaben/HA2_00_ED_GailtalerSpeck_1.pdf
- Gailtal
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gailtal
- Gailtaler Speck. Spezifikation Antrag des Vereines Gailtaler Speck - Naturarena
Kärnten zum Eintragungsverfahren nach Art. 5 der Verordnung (EWG) Nr. 2081/92
des Rates vom 14. Juli 1992 zum Schutz von geografischen Angaben und
Ursprungsbezeichnungen für Agrarerzeugnisse und Lebensmittel, Verein Gailtaler
Speck - Naturarena Kärnten
http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/door/documentDisplay.html?chkDocument=1452_1_de
- Genuss Region Österreich
www.genuss-region.at
- M. Burgstaller. Gailtaler Speck- Käsestraße: Durchs Gailtal den Geschmack
erforschen! In: Der Alm- und Bergbauer 8-9/03 p 8-9.
www.gailtalerspeck.at
- SIEVERS G.W. Genussland Österreich- Was Küche und Keller zu bieten haben. S. 501
- Themenstraßen als regionale Kooperationen und Mittel zur touristischen Entwicklung
http://www.leader-austria.at/regions/attransnational/news/news_139/de/file/
All internet references last accessed on 14 March 2011.
Language code
German
Product of www.genuss-region.at
Yes
Regional contact
Gailtaler Speckverein
Chairman Albert Jank
Götzing
9624 Egg
Phone/Fax: 04282-3435
www.gailtalerspeck.at
Authors: Mag. Eva Sommer, Dr. Erhard Höbaus
24.02.2012, Lebensministerium III/4