Bucklige Welt Apfelmost

 
Record Number: 49
 
Disclosure Date
First mention of the cider in the region “Bucklige Welt” in the handwritten diary of Erasmus v. Puchheim in 1557.
 
 

Photo: BMLFUW/A...

Title
Bucklige Welt Apfelmost
(Bucklige Welt apple cider)
 
 
 
 
 
Abstract or claim
Traditional production of apple cider in the region Bucklige Welt, Lower Austria. The cider derives its richness in taste from the numerous apple varieties which are grown under favourable soil and climatic conditions mainly in extensive orchards.
 
Name of product, Product class
Fruit wine, apple cider, cider
 
Name of region
Bucklige Welt, industrial area, Lower Austria, Austria
 
Field of search
Food and Agriculture
 
Name of information provider
Roman LechnerTourismusverband Bucklige Welt
 
Name of applicant for title
---
 
Holder of knowledge or associated resources
About 30 farmers in a cooperative for fruit wine production
 
Grantee(s), holder(s),
assignee(s) or owner(s) of title, if any
---
 
Descriptors
- History:
Cider production in the region of today’s Austria:
The first written reference concerning “Most” (cider) can be traced back to the Minstrel Neidhart von Reuenthal (1240).
In the 16^th  century Knight Philipp Grünthaler ordered to plant a large “paumgarten” (orchard) next to the castle Zeillern (Mostviertel; Lower Austria) which points to a first period of prosperity in terms of cider production.
 
Empress Maria Theresia (1740-1780) initiated the planting of fruit trees in extensive orchards. Her son Joseph II awarded farmers with a silver medal when they planted more than 100 fruit trees. Moreover, he ordered that fruit trees should be planted on the occasion of a marriage.
 
Cider production in the region “Bucklige Welt”:
One can assume that since the early Middle Ages apples and pears have mainly been produced to obtain fruit wine.
 
The first written notice which proves the production of cider in the region Bucklige Welt comes from the diary of Erasmus von Puchheim, Lord of Krumbach, 1557. The notiz refers to repeated disputes with the local clergyman on the subject that the pastor devoted himself increasingly to the consumption of cider instead of saying Mass. Moreover, it is reported in visitation documents during Reformation that the pastors of Krumbach excessively enjoyed alcohol in the form of cider.
 
In the second half of the 16^th  century the consumption of cider in this region, at that time called “Waldmark” (forest march), is described for the first time not as abuse but in a neutral way.
 
The presence of Archduke Johann in Thernberg (today’s municipality Scheiblingkirchen) around 1828 seems to have given impetus to fruit growing in the region Bucklige Welt.
 
The production of cider boomed also in the 19^th  century, at the time of the abolition of serfdom and industrialization. The transport of cider to remote areas was facilitated by the making of new roads and the construction of railways. Moreover, in the late 1800s the phylloxera epidemic destroyed most of the vineyards in the peripheral areas of the Bucklige Welt.
 
During and after World War I, an association of fruit growers in Krumbach pushed the production of fruits.
 
However, in the wake of World War II drinking habits changed due to enhanced mobility, changes in the society and an increase in orchards for dessert fruit production. Drinking of cider got out of style and was replaced with the consumption of beer, wine and soft drinks. Consequently, the uprooting of fruit trees rapidly diminished the number of extensive fruit trees.
Only few fruit growers modernized their fruit-presses and tried to make the running of a ‘Buschenschank’, an on-farm tavern, a successful business.
 
In 1984 the fruit-wine cooperative “Obstmostgemeinschaft Bucklige Welt” was established with the aim to establish quality standards similar to standards existing for vinification, to foster traditional cider taverns and innovative cider products and to develop regional marketing tools in the political district Wiener Neustadt-Neunkirchen.
 
During the last decades the planting of old fruit cultivars adapted to the local environment has been promoted by initiatives of the regional management and the Federal Province of Lower Austria.
 
- Region:
The Bucklige Welt (“hilly world”, also termed “country of 1000 hills”) is situated in the south-eastern part of Lower Austria. The hilly landscape is dominated by large forests, grassland and extensive orchards.
Geographically, the Bucklige Welt is a part of the Central Eastern Alps. Their altitude is between 400 and 900 m.
The Bucklige Welt is bordered by the mountains of the Rosalia in the east, the Semmering in the west and the Wechsel in the south. In the north, the area opens to the Viennese basin.
 
The region covers about 585 km² and encompasses 23 municipalities with about 37,800 inhabitants.
 
Climate:
The Bucklige Welt shows subalpine climate, partly with cold nights. The average summer temperature (18^o C) is moderate, the average winter temperature (-2^o C) rather low. Precipitation is strongly influenced by the main meteorological conditions. Usually, low pressure weather systems from the Adriatic bring rain while cyclones from Western Europe rarely lead to precipitation.
 
The beginning of the vegetation period in spring varies. Night frosts may jeopardize fructification in valleys while trees on slopes are less affected.
The structure of the hilly landscape favours climatic niches which can be used for the production of excellent fruits.
Rapid temperature cycling may be of advantage to the development of a piquant apple flavour.
 
Soil conditions:
Soils originate from mica schist, conglomerate schist, Semmering-quartzite and isles of lime and dolomite (Trias). In the basins huge brash-sand-silt formations exist. Loessal soils occur in the north, at the border of the Steinfeld.
 
- Bucklige Welt apple cider:
The German colloquial word “Most” is not concise as people sometimes use it not only for fruit wine but also for fruit juice. According to the Austrian Wine Act 1999, sec. 42, pome fruit wine has to be labelled as “Obstwein”, “Obstmost” or “Most” or as Most in combination with the fruit species used for production, while the Austrian Fruit-juice Ordinance (“Fruchtsaftverordnung”) lays down that unfermented, and thus non-alcoholic, fruit juice is to be termed “Süßmost”.
 
Apple varieties:
Apple trees in extensive orchards of the Bucklige Welt encompass more than 180 varieties:
The apple trees in farmers’ orchards comprise old varieties (e.g. Haselapfel, Grazerapfel – a Maschanska-like apple, Winterlingapfel, Bohnapfel, Schafsnase) and a great number of varieties originally used as dessert fruits (e.g. Rainetten, Brünnlinge and Krummstiel) as well as undefined varieties stemming from repeated grafting by farmers using unclassified propagation material.
 
Fruit growers have always taken care that apple varieties were chosen for propagation which are well adapted to the natural environment and the climatic conditions.
 
Planting of fruit trees:
Farmers have planted fruit trees to meet their specific needs. This has led to fruit orchards in the vicinity of the farms and to extensive orchards along slopes and boundary ridges. Traditionally, apple trees are predominantly found in orchards in the rear of farm houses while pears and apple trees for cider production are grown in extensive orchards.
 
Extensive orchards are not irrigated, which results in lower yields in years with insufficient rainfall.
 
Harvest:
Ripe fruits which fall off may be kept on the soil for some time for post-ripening, and are then collected by hand. However, for efficiency reasons, the trees are usually shaken and the apples collected in a single process.
 
Storage:
Apples are often stored between harvest and processing in order to reduce the acidity and to get a more balanced acidity content.
A specific time of storage is not set as it depends on the ripeness of the fruits, suitability of storage, weather conditions, and the impact of frost.
 
Crushing:
Today, apples are crushed in modern pare devices. However, occasionally traditional devices, such as stone-roller-mills, are still used.
When stone-roller-mills are used the fruits are not sufficiently crushed and it may be necessary to wait till the pulp is ready for pressing.
The modern pare devices have reduced the period between crushing and pressing from 4 weeks to a few hours.
 
Pressing:
Usually, the pulp is immediately pressed in order to avoid oxidation and/or infection by micro-organisms and to improve the quality of the final product.
 
Numerous traditional cider presses (wooden ram, spindle press, hydraulic press) with wooden “leaky” baskets are still in use on farms.
Modern community cider mills have automatic conveyor belts which transfer the fruits to the pressing units.
 
In former times a tradition to enhance the output of fruit juice was the so-called “Klauen” (literally: to pinch). This means that water was added overnight to the grounded pomace after the first pressing. The next day the mash was pressed again.
This method was applied by farmers who did not have enough apples to produce the desired amount of cider or by stingy farmers.
 
Fermentation:
The mash is fermented in tanks made of wood, steal or plastic, depending on the farm.
Cultured yeast is added to provide for rapid and controlled fermentation. Farmers may use different strains of cultured yeasts to enhance certain flavours characteristic of their cider.
 
Fermentation can take 6-8 weeks, depending on the temperature of the cellar. Then the cider is separated from the “Lager” (rest of yeast) in order to avoid an accelerated acidity degradation.
 
In the past, sulphur was burned to sulphur dioxide in empty wooden tanks to have some protection against infections during storage.
Today, cider is taken off the tank, sulphite is added, and then the cider is fined prior to filtration.
 
After fermentation the ciders are not blended, as this would lead to opaqueness. A second filtering would then be necessary, which could have negative effects on the flavour of the cider.
 
The use of colouring agents and other additives is not allowed. The cider is not pasteurized. Water may be added exclusively for domestic use.
 
Description of cider:
After filtration the cider is pale yellow to golden. The colour depends on the apple varieties used and their ripeness. The colour intensity may be enhanced by a longer storage time before pressing.
 
The alcohol content is influenced by the ripeness of the fruits and is 6 - 7 % alcohol by volume on average.
 
Bucklige Welt Apfelmost has a broad range of fine, characteristic flavours that depends on the domestic apple varieties used. The diversity of apple varieties used provides for a peculiar richness in taste. The cider must have a well balanced, full and harmonious taste.
 
- Marketing:
Direct marketing
 
Distinct quality linked to origin and Traditional Knowledge:
- Specific soils and weather conditions in an sub-alpine area enable fruit growing in fruit
  orchards and extensive orchards.
- Strong link to the area: Fruit growers have always taken care that apple varieties were
  chosen for propagation which are well adapted to the natural environment and the climatic
  conditions.
- Bucklige Welt Apfelmost encompasses cider made of various local apple varieties which
  evolved over centuries
- Due to the cultivation method and the specific geographic situation cider can be produced
  with specific characteristics in terms of taste.
- The unique taste and aroma of the Bucklige Welt Apfelmost are directly linked to the climatic
  niches in the hilly landscape and the rapid temperature cycling.
- The production of Bucklige Welt Apfelmost is the result of Traditional Knowledge passed
  down to those active in the sector: the Traditional Knowledge and expertise of fruit
  growers (adaptation of the cultivation to the environmental conditions, selection of local
  cultivars, genetic improvement, harvesting know-how), the expertise of producers of cider
  and the expertise of wholesale buyers and retail sellers in marketing.
 
- Utilization:
In addition to apple juice and apple cider, fruit wine is produced from a mixture of apples and regional pear varieties (Wasserbirne, Hirschbirne, Lederbirne, Speckbirne) in the region. Further products are sparkling apple wine, spirits and fruit liqueurs.
 
- Protection:
-
 
Key Words
Food and Agriculture, Traditional Knowledge, Austria, Lower Austria, region, industrial area, Bucklige Welt, Bucklige Welt Apfelmost, Bucklige Welt apple cider, apple cider, cider, must, fruit wine, fruit juice
 
Bibliography / References
- Aus der Geschichte des Mostes
  http://www.mostbirnhaus.at/mostbirnhaus/?id=39574
- Bucklige Welt Apfelmost
  www.genuss-region.at
- Bucklige Welt (Niederösterreich)
  http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bucklige_Welt_%28Nieder%C3%B6sterreich%29
- Bucklige Welt Obst- Most- Gemeinschaft
  http://www.mostschank.at/
- Bundesgesetz über den Verkehr mit Wein und Obstwein (Austrian Wine Act 1999) § 42.
  Bezeichnung von Obstwein
  http://aktuell.lebensministerium.at/article/articleview/29749/1/8153
- Land der Tausend Hügel
  http://www.buckligewelt.at/
- SCHIMETSCHEK, Bruno. Vergangene Zeiten. Geschichtliche Bilder aus der Buckligen Welt.
  Kirchschlag, Verein Kulturförderung, undated (about 1980).
- Soo gut schmeckt die Bucklige Welt
  www.niederoesterreich.at
- Willkommen in der Obst-Most-Gemeinschaft Bucklige Welt
  http://www.lisa.at/bucklige/
- Wo der „Bartl“ den Most herholt
  www.mostrezepte.at 
- 83. Verordnung der Bundesministerin für Gesundheit und Frauen über Fruchtsäfte und
  einige gleichartige Erzeugnisse (Austrian Fruit-juice Ordinance) Austrian Federal Law
  Gazette II 83/2004.
 
All internet references last accessed on 4^th  of April 2008.
 
Language Code
German
 
Product of www.genuss-region.at
Yes
 
Regional contact
Roman Lechner
President of the Tourism Association Bucklige Welt
Phone: 02643/701019
e-mail: lechnerroman@telering.at
 
Josef Schwarz
President of the Association “Obst-Most-Gemeinschaft Bucklige Welt”
Phone: 0676/6269109
e-mail: most@stanghof.at
www.mostschank.at
www.buckligewelt.at
 
Authors: Mag. Eva Sommer, Dr. Erhard Höbaus
 

09.11.2011, Lebensministerium III/4