Gesäuse Wild

 
Record Number: 139
 
Disclosure Date
Hunting has been practiced in the region around the Gesäuse since the eleventh century.  
 
 
 

Photo: BMLFUW/A...

Title
Gesäuse Wild
(Gesäuse wild game)  
 
 
 
 
 
Abstract or claim
Traditionally produced specialities made from wild game meat from roe deer, chamois, red deer, wood grouse (capercaillie) and black grouse from the Gesäuse region.
The meat of Gesäuse wild game is characterised by its dark colour, aromatic flavour and high protein content.
The game is allowed to reach maturity free of stress and roaming free in the natural environment of the Gesäuse National Park, Steirische Eisenwurzen Nature Park and the forests of the Federal Forestry Authority, the Styrian Regional Forestry Authority and Admont Monastery.
Compliance with a system of closed seasons guarantees that stocks of wild game in the region are kept at healthy levels at all times.  
 
Name of product, Product class
Wild game, meat products  
 
Name of region
Gesäuse, Upper Styria, Styria, Austria  
 
Field of search
Food and agriculture
 
Name of information provider
Reinhard Mitterbäck
Gesäuse Wild Region of Delight  
 
Name of applicant for title
--- 
 
Holder of knowledge or associated resources
Numerous hunters in the Gesäuse region  
 
Grantee(s), holder(s), assignee(s) or owner(s) of title, if any
---  
 
Descriptors
- History:
Humans have been hunting since the Palaeolithic Age. At that time, prey served purely as a means of survival and sustenance, with pelts being used to provide protection from the elements, and bones to fashion primitive tools and weapons. Meat from animals was an indispensable basis for human nutrition. From the beginnings of such human activity as a hunter through to the seventh century AD, all game could be caught or hunted at any time, in any place and with whatever means available.
 
As settlement and domestication of animals grew, however, hunting ceased to be of primary importance as a foundation for life amongst large swathes of the population, increasingly being replaced by agriculture and the breeding of livestock.
 
In the Middle Ages, the right to hunt became ever more detached from the right to own land, and hunting developed into a privilege, as only those who owned land were also allowed to hunt. In the Middle Ages, only the sovereign, or ‘ruler of the land’ (this could be a King, Emperor or Duke, or possibly a member of the upper echelons of the nobility or clergy) was permitted to own land. As a result, farmers and ordinary citizens, as well as the majority of the landed gentry, became excluded from hunting.
 
The Middle Ages also saw the creation of a distinction between ‘high hunting’ – for large wild game, which was reserved for the nobility – and ‘low hunting’ (for lower clergy, etc.), for smaller animals such as rabbits and birds, as well as deer, the only type of hoofed game to be classified as small game.
 
The ‘Jagdregal’ (a law granting the sovereign the right to hunt on another person’s land) resulted in ever greater expansion into areas in which he was not the landowner. The sovereign thereby acquired land without an owner and that of the ruling class, as well as private land, and took control over them. This resulted in ever greater groups of people being excluded from the practice of hunting.
 
Since hunting was the privilege of the exclusive society for centuries, recipes for dishes featuring wild game were initially only to be found in the cookbooks of noble-aristocratic and Church circles. Venison (meat from wild game) provided most of the fresh meat used in the kitchens of the court, monasteries and nobility, especially in the winter months.
 
Kaiser Joseph II (1741 - 1790) eventually lifted the monopoly on hunting enjoyed by the landowners and clergy with his ‘Josephine Patent’ of 28 February 1786.
 
By 1818, citizens and farmers were able to purchase or lease hunting grounds.
 
But it was not until the hunting licence of Kaiser Franz-Josef (1830 - 1916) of 7 March 1849 that hunting on another person’s land was finally repealed, and the right to hunt declared a product of landownership. This was the beginning of private hunting and communal, or cooperative, hunting. Nowadays, hunting in Austria is a matter settled at provincial level.
 
For many centuries, hunting did not represent a branch of the economy; instead, it served purely as a source of courtly pleasure. It was only in the nineteenth century that wild game became an object of commerce, when it found its way into the cuisine of wider strata of the population.
 
Hunting has been practiced in the region around the Gesäuse since the eleventh century.
 
The territories lying between the Kaiserschild and the Lugauer mountains are ancient historical hunting grounds. Kaiser Maximilian I (1456 - 1519) nurtured a special love for the hunting grounds of the Gesäuse; in his hunting books, ‘Theuerdank’ and ‘Weißkunig’, he describes the Kaiserschild as one of the best hunting grounds. He also declared it the ‘Gamsmutter’, a kind of mediaeval nature reserve used for hunting purposes. To ensure the surrounding areas continued to be supplied with young animals every year, it was prohibited to hunt wild game in this area. Maximilian had a signpost bearing the imperial coat of arms mounted on Fölzberg mountain to indicate this. The first feeding of wild game in the Radmer region also dates back to Kaiser Maximilian I and this period.
 
In the sixteenth century, Kaiser Maximilian I declared all state-owned domains, such as mines and forests, to be ‘regalia’, or the property of the Kaiser.
As a result, the monasteries at Admont and Göß were also forced to concede their hunting grounds to the Emperor. The monks would still go hunting despite this, even though they could be disrobed as punishment if caught in the act.
The regulation was later toned down, and the property of the Kaiser restricted to forests used for the procurement of wood and coal.
 
The mountainous Gesäuse region was largely forgotten about in the centuries that followed, with only Ferdinand I (1503 - 1564) and Ferdinand II (1578 - 1637) occasionally visiting to hunt.
 
The imperial hunting ground was only rediscovered by Kaiser Franz Josef I (1830 - 1916). He had a hunting lodge built in the area in 1871, and purchased the entire area between Eisenerz, Radmer and Hieflau in 1889.
 
Since 1974, it has no longer been possible to impose blanket hunting bans over a specified area.
 
Steirische Eisenwurzen Nature Park was founded in 1996, followed by Gesäuse National Park in 2002.
 
In 2005 the name ‘Xeis Edelwild’ was registered as a word/picture trademark. 
 
Around three years ago, a network of commercial and educational organisations designed to promote direct marketing of wild game was set up to make it possible to provide venison, even in small amounts, all through the season (May-December). The company Xeis Edelwild Marketing GmbH and Landwirtschaftliche Fachschule Grabnerhof (‘Grabnerhof Agricultural College’), was brought into being in a cooperative exercise between the Regional Forestry Authority, the Federal Forestry Authority, private lessees of hunting grounds, Steirische Eisenwurzen Nature Park and the ‘Regionalentwicklung Gesäuse’ (‘Gesäuse Regional Development’). As part of a project, students at Grabnerhof Agricultural College cut up wild game for the Regional Forestry Authority and prepare it for delivery in ready-packed form.
 
- Region:
The Gesäuse region forms part of the north-eastern Enns Valley Alps, and lies in Upper Styria.
The Gesäuse is defined as the 16 km-long gorge cut by the River Enns through the Limestone Alps between Admont and Hieflau, and the tributary valleys of Radmer and Johnsbach.
 
The Gesäuse (known as ‘Xeis’ in the local dialect) originally took its name from the ‘Sausen and Brausen’ (‘whooshing and roaring’) of the white waters of the Enns as they passed between the steeply rising mountainsides on either side of the narrow gorge.
North of the Enns, the landscape is defined by the mountains of the Buchstein group, while the peaks of the Reichenstein and the Hochtorzug dominate south of the river.
 
The Gesäuse region lies at altitudes ranging between 428 and 2,370 metres above sea level, and is a craggy, multiform high mountain range featuring steep rock faces and bizarre ridges.
 
With an area of 586 km², Steirische Eisenwurzen Nature Park is the largest nature park in Austria. It was founded by the municipalities of Altenmarkt bei St. Gallen, Gams bei Hieflau, Landl, Palfau, St. Gallen, Weißenbach an der Enns and Wildalpen. The nature park is shaped by powerful mountain chains with towering rock faces, glass-clear rivers and lakes, dense forests and narrow ravines.
 
Gesäuse National Park covers an area of 110 km² across the municipalities of Admont, Johnsbach, Weng, Hieflau, Landl and St. Gallen, and is the newest national park in Austria. Its natural space is shaped by rocks, Alpine pastures, forest and the white waters of the River Enns.
 
Climate:
A humid-temperate Central European-Oceanic climate dominates in the Gesäuse.
Frequent, partially sustained periods of rainfall producing considerable volumes of water are characteristic of the region. The median annual temperature is 8 °C. The temperature fluctuates between 13 and 17 °C in the summer, and between -2 and -3 °C in the winter. The average annual volume of rainfall is 1,566 mm.
 
Flora:
The Alpine pastures in the Gesäuse are located at altitudes between 900 and 1,500 metres above sea level.
The mountain flora is the result of soil and climatic conditions, and is characterised by a rich diversity of alpine plants.
 
Habitat:
The hunting grounds of the Gesäuse Wild cover an area of 1,000 km² in total. The wild game lives at altitudes ranging between 700 and 1,600 metres above sea level in Steirische Eisenwurzen Nature Park and Gesäuse National Park, as well as the forests managed by the Federal Forestry Authority, Styrian Regional Forestry Authority and Admont Monastery. The total stock of wild game consists of some 65,000 animals (including 10,000 red deer, 40,000 roe deer and 15,000 chamois).
 
- Wild game:
The term ‘wild game’ is used to describe animals living free in a natural environment, subject to the hunting laws of the province in question.
 
- Gesäuse Wild (Gesäuse wild game):
The Gesäuse hunting grounds are populated by roe deer, chamois and red deer.
 
Production process:
Numerous hunters commit their time and energy to feeding and hunting game in the Gesäuse.
 
Gesäuse Wild is allowed to reach maturity free of stress, roaming free in a purely natural environment.
 
The wild game feeds primarily on fresh herbs and juicy grasses. The animals are only given additional feed in the winter months. Hay from the region is used as a foodstuff.
 
The use of medication is prohibited.
 
Hunting of wild game is ecologically credible, and meets the very highest standards of humane animal welfare.
 
Hunting:
The hunting season runs from May to November. In total, some 15,000 red deer, roe deer and chamois are hunted every year.
 
A certain percentage of wild game in each age category must be hunted each year. The percentage to be hunted is defined by the hunting department of the local district administrative authorities.
 
After an animal has been hunted, the wild game is cut up and disembowelled as quickly as possible. To enable the meat to mature, it is then stored in a refrigerated venison chamber at a temperature of 3 – 4 °C for about a day, after which it is either processed or deep-frozen.
 
Around 50 % of the venison (meat from roe deer, red deer or chamois) is processed at a butcher in the region, and usually vacuum-packed.
 
Meat description:
Venison from the Gesäuse has finely-fibred musculature, and is distinguished by its pleasant flavour.
 
Nutritional value:
Venison is low in calories and cholesterol, with a lower level of fat and higher protein content than meat from farm animals.
Venison is high in vitamins as Vitamin B1, B2, B6 and B12, and well-known for its mineral content and trace elements such as iron, zinc and selenium.
 
Quality control and quality distinction:
Before hunting, the hunter inspects the wild game optically for any distinctive features.
The wild game is subjected to a meat inspection by the hunter, and inspected for any animal diseases or parasites (such as TBC, bladder worms or trichinae) which could be transferred to humans. Following the inspection, the meat packaging is given a ‘health mark’, in the form either of a five-cornered stamp (meaning it can be sold both within the EU common market and the national market) or a quadratic stamp (for the national market only).
 
- Marketing:
Fresh venison is available from mid-August to end-December. The processed products can be enjoyed year-round. 
 
Venison and packaged products from Gesäuse Wild are marketed directly from farms, through domestic gastronomic outlets, individual food retailers, and over the internet. They are marketed both as ‘Gesäuse Wild’ and under the ‘Xeis Edelwild’ trademark.
 
Connection between the geographical area and traditional knowledge:
- Special soil and climate conditions in the
  Gesäuse region, with its diverse range of
  local Alpine flora, enable wild game to
  reproduce at altitudes of up to 1,600 metres above sea level.
- The wild game feeds on grasses and herbs from Alpine pastures, and pure,
  fresh mountain spring water from the pasture area. Any additional feeding
  takes place exclusively in the winter months, in the wild.
- Gesäuse Wild lives and roams free in a natural environment year-round,
  reaching maturity by natural selection in the Gesäuse region.
- Thanks to its husbandry, wild game can be produced with a characteristic
  composition. The meat has a unique aroma and flavour, both of which are
  directly related to the local Alpine flora ingested by the animal.
- Production of Gesäuse Wild is the result of traditional knowledge handed
  down to those active in this field. This takes in the traditional knowledge
  and experience of hunters (compliance with closed seasons, hunting methods
  and additional feeding in winter), know-how of hunting, maturing of meat,
  and the experience of processors and gastronomes.
 
- Utilisation:

Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman

Gesäuse Wild is offered both as fresh meat and in packaged form. Meat from stags is used a great deal when the product is processed. The product range extends from venison cured ham, venison sausage, venison Punkerl (cooked hard sausage), venison salami and Hubertus Krainer sausage, through venison pâté, venison liver pâté and ready dishes (venison ragout, venison roast and venison goulash).
The fresh meat is available in a range of forms including venison roast, saddle of venison without bones, and fillet of young venison.
 
- Protection:
Word/picture trademark ‘Xeis Edelwild’ (Austrian Patent Office, registry no. 223 843, 24 March 2005)  
 
Key Words
Food and agriculture, traditional knowledge, Austria, Styria, region, Gesäuse, meat, wild game, Gesäuse Wild, Gesäuse wild game, venison cured ham, venison sausage, venison Punkerl, venison salami, Hubertus Krainer sausage, venison pâté, venison liver pâté   
 
Bibliography / References
- Alpenregion Nationalpark Gesäuse - ORTE / STÄDTE
  http://www.tiscover.at/at/guide/5,de,SCH1/objectId,RGN778212at,curr,EUR,folder,CITY,season,at1,selectedEntry,city/city.html
- Bundesgesetzblatt für die Republik Österreich, 108. Verordnung der
  Bundesministerin für Gesundheit und Frauen über die Direktvermarktung
  von Lebensmitteln (Lebensmittel-Direktvermarktungsverordnung)
- Das edelste aus steirischen Wäldern
  http://www.xeis.st/startseite.html
- Das Haarwild
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  http://www.8ung.at/kirischitz/beschau.htm
- Gesäuse
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  http://www.genuss-region.at/article/archive/24980
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  OLV-Buchverlag, Linz, 1983, S. 22, 66f.
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  http://www.grabnerhof.com/rtc-grabnerhof/629
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  Das Webportal des Wiener Landesjagdverbandes
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- Kennzeichnung durch den Tierarzt
  http://www.8ung.at/kirischitz/beschau.htm
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  http://www.tiscover.at/at/guide/5,de,SCH1/objectId,RGN778212at,curr,EUR,parentId,RGN778212at,season,at1,selBlk,CURRWEATHERBLOCK,selElem,3,selectedEntry,home/climate.html
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  http://www.umwelt.steiermark.at/cms/beitrag/10023703/25206/?mobile=J
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  Seehamer Verlag GmbH,  Weyarn
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  & Scheriau, Wien, 1995, S. 162,
- Nationalpark Gesäuse
  http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nationalpark_Ges%C3%A4use
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  http://www.nationalparks.or.at/article/articleview/31107/1/8515
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  http://www.nationalpark.co.at/index.php?navid=1
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  Ist die Zwangsmitgliedschaft gerechtfertigt?, Humboldt Universität zu
  Berlin, Berlin, 2004
  http://www.wiwi.uni-muenster.de/06//igt/papers/Workshop11/Abstracts/Dr_V_Beckmann_Fr_K_Rauchenecker/Rauchenecker_Beckmann_IGT_2004.pdf
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  Herbst 2008, S.22
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  morgen, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München, 1970, S. 65f.
 
All internet references last accessed on 28 May 2009.  
 
Language Code
German
 
Product of www.genuss-region.at  
Ja 
 
Regional contact 
Reinhard Mitterbäck
Gesäuse Wild Region of Delight
Markt 35
A-8933 St. Gallen
Phone: 0043/3632/7714
Fax: 0043/3632/7714+10
Mobile: 0664/5033010
E-mail: info@alpenregion.cc or r.mitterbaeck@eisenwurzen.com
 
Authors: Doris Reinthaler, Eva Sommer, Erhard Höbaus
 

23.01.2012, Lebensministerium III/4