Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most
Record Number: 147
Disclosure Date
It is assumed that apples and pears were already being used to produce fruit wine in the region in the early Middle Ages. Around 1540, cider and perry started to become the drink of choice in the Hausruck region.
Photo: BMLFUW/A...
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most
(Hausruck perry and cider)
Abstract or claim
Traditional production of fruit wine made of pears and apples in the region of Hausruck, Upper Austria.
The fruit wine derives its richness in taste from the numerous apple and pear varieties which are grown under favourable soil and climatic conditions in the region.
Critical for the quality of Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is the cultivation in extensive orchards, the optimal harvest time and the rapid processing of the fruits.
Name of product, Product class
Perry, apple cider, mixed cider, fruit wine
Name of region
Hausruck, Upper Austria, Austria
Field of search
Food and agriculture
Name of information provider
Mag. Ursula Wastlbauer
Mostlandl-Hausruck Regional Association
Name of applicant for title
---
Holder of knowledge or associated resources
About 70 farmers and fruit wine producers in the Hausruck region
Grantee(s), holder(s), assignee(s) or owner(s) of title, if any
---
Descriptors
- History:
It is assumed that apples and pears have been used to produce fruit wine since the early Middle Ages, possibly even the 6th century. However, the majority of the harvested pears and apples were processed into dried fruit since the perry and cider from the wild pears and apples usually tasted bitter and sour.
The processing of fruit became more important with the start of deliberate fruit production by monasteries and settlers in the 8th century and under the political influence of Charlemagne. From the 10th century on, pomiculture spread rapidly thanks to the religious orders.
Around 1540, perry and cider started to become the drinks of choice in the Hausruck region even though Emperor Maximilian II forbade the serving of fruit wine in 1570 because it reduced the income of the monasteries and manorial lords who alone had the right to sell wine and beer and, in his opinion, led to fornication.
During the harvest time, perry and cider were readily available to quench one’s thirst. Women drank watered down fruit wine as did children, for whom it was used as a means of promoting their growing up. When times were good, a fruit wine farmer could produce more than 500 hectolitres annually.
In the 17th century, the farmers’ first fruit wine taverns arose in the Hausruck region.
In 1641, innkeepers complained that these fruit wine taverns were flourishing and the farmers were not paying the consumption tax. The taverns were even open while the mass was being said. Some time afterwards, the innkeepers themselves started to serve fruit wine in addition to beer and wine.
St Florian’s Abbey (Traunviertel, near Linz) sent a sample of its Winiwiz perry to the emperor in Vienna as a birthday present in 1677.
In 1733 it became necessary for fruit wine taverns to be registered, after which their wine cellars were subject to inspection by tax collectors. Under pressure from brewers, the operation of fruit wine taverns was limited to the time between the feasts of St George (23 April) and St Michael (29 September).
Upper Austria, however, was a land of wine into the 17th century and in some parts into the 18th century. The consumption of perry and cider did not spread until the cultivation of grapes and consumption of wine began to recede in the 16th century. At the same time, pomology was on the rise, especially in the monasteries (e.g. St Florian’s Abbey and Kremsmünster Abbey). A final factor influencing this change was the end of the exclusive rights of the manorial system after 1781.
Fruit production experienced an enormous upswing in the 18th century when Empress Maria Theresa (1740 - 1780) initiated the planting of fruit trees in extensive orchards. Her son Joseph II awarded farmers with a silver medal when they planted more than 100 fruit trees.
On 7 March 1789, he ordered that fruit trees should be planted on the occasion of a marriage with the remark that “this planting must be undertaken strictly in the same year in which the marriage occurs”. The idea that a fulfilled life includes not only building a house and having a son but also planting a tree has remained deeply rooted in the Austrian consciousness up to today.
Around 1780, hundreds of nurseries began to appear in Upper Austria which sold fruit trees to farmers. Many trees remained ungrafted, which resulted in an enormous variety of perry and cider fruit cultivars. The extensive orchards and rows of trees alongside paths and roads that are characteristic of many parts of the province arose at that time.
Starting at the beginning of the 19th century, choice fruit cultivation increasingly spread throughout Upper Austria. Around 1800, the pomologist Liegel (1777 - 1861) and the Augustinian canon and master gardener Schmidberger (1773 - 1844) from St Florian’s Abbey were very involved in this process.
The topographer Benedict Pillwein wrote in 1830: “With regard to fruit cultivation, the Hausruck region ranks above all others. All field borders, paths and roads are lined with fruit trees [...] The parish Scharten is known as the best nursery in the entire country north of the Enns.”
A significant development in the history of perry and cider production was the replacement of the Roßwalzel, a disc similar to a millstone installed in the middle of the pressing house and moved by a horse, by fruit mills (Pressmühle) at the beginning of the 19th century.
In many farmhouses, there used to be large cellars or a special Mostmäuerl, a niche for cool storage of the beverage of choice.
The production of perry and cider increased in the late 19th century at the time of the abolition of serfdom and industrialisation. The transport of cider to remote areas was facilitated by the making of new roads and the construction of railways.
The largest boom in perry and cider was during the economic crisis of the 1920s and 1930s: the unemployed and those who had no entitlement to benefits as well as others drank “a Seitl Most, damit’s net vü kost” (a mug of cider, which doesn’t cost much) at a tavern or at the producer’s farm.
However, in the wake of World War II, drinking habits changed due to enhanced mobility, transformations in society’s values and an increase in orchards for dessert fruit production. Drinking cider was considered to be old-fashioned and was replaced with the consumption of beer, wine and soft drinks. Consequently, many rows of fruit trees were uprooted and the number of fruit trees rapidly diminished.
Perry and cider tastings (Mostkosten), which took place all over Upper Austria in the 1980s, brought perry and cider to a new audience. Numerous fruit wine taverns developed as a result.
In 2007 the Mostlandl-Hausruck Regional Association was founded as a part of the Mostlandl-Hausruck LEADER region programme. Consisting of 24 municipalities, the LEADER region Mostlandl-Hausruck (leader period 2007 - 2013) has set itself the goal of preserving the typical cultural landscape by planting new extensive orchards and rows of fruit and deciduous trees (including replacing fruit trees cut down because of fire blight) and expanding and securing existing ones.
- Region:
Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
The Hausruck is a 30 km long forested range of hills in the foothills of the Austrian Alps after which the Hausruck region is named. It lies north of Wels and extends to the Inn region.
Climatic and soil conditions:
The Hausruck region can be categorised as a Central European transition climate with oceanic and continental influences. Cool, humid summers and mild winters with abundant snowfall are characteristic of this region.
The zone is affected by west winds and has an average annual precipitation of 1000 - 1200 mm. Precipitation declines and temperatures rise in the eastern part.
The average annual temperature is 7.7 °C. The mean amount of days with frost is 110 days, while there are around 35 summer days (> 25 °C).
Geologically speaking, Mostlandl-Hausruck lies between the foothills of the Northern Limestone Alps and the Bohemian Massif. Soils mainly consist of silt (fine-grained sedimentary rock) and gravel.
The hilly landscape arose from deposits from a former sea and is therefore very fertile.
The presence of numerous fruit trees in this silt area, which is highly susceptible to erosion, is very significant due to their stabilising effect on the slopes.
The extensive orchards are situated at an altitude of about 320 - 550 m.
The entire area of cultivation of the fruit trees in the region is between 800 and 900 ha.
- Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most (Hausruck perry and cider):
Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
Only fruit grown in the region is used to produce Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most. All steps in the production and processing of Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most are exclusively carried out in the indicated geographical region.
Varieties:
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is produced from numerous traditional pear and apple varieties such as Speckbirne (most common), Winawitzbirne, red Pichlbirne, green Pichlbirne, Frauenbirne and Brünnerling.
Planting of fruit trees:
Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
Because the old fruit varieties are robust, pest control and fertilisation are not necessary. Due to the ideal climatic conditions, orchards are not irrigated.
Harvest:
Ripe fruit which fall off the tree by themselves are collected by hand from the end of September until the first frost. The apples are mixed together with different varieties of pears right when harvested. Rotten fruit is removed manually.
Apples and pears are not stored between harvest and processing but are transformed immediately after harvesting.
Crushing and pressing:
After being washed, the fruit is crushed mechanically in a mill, after which the pulp is pressed in a hydraulic press.
The majority of producers press their own fruit. A few borrow presses that are used within the municipality’s association. Every fruit wine farmer receives his or her own pressed fruit.
Fermentation:
The mash is fermented in barrels made of wood, steel or plastic, depending on the farm.
Cultured yeast is added so that fermentation is rapid and controlled. Farmers predominantly use Saccharomyces to enhance the special characteristics of Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most.
Fermentation takes 6-8 weeks. Then the cider is separated from the dregs of the yeast in order to avoid acid degradation. After this, sulphite is added, and then the cider is refined prior to filtration.
The use of colouring agents and other additives is not allowed.
The cider is not pasteurized.
Storage:
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is stored in the cellars of the producers in bottles or steel tanks. Wooden barrels are rarely used.
Filling and labelling:
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is bottled for sale and labelled by the producers themselves.
Description of fruit wine:
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most has a different colour depending on what fruit is used, how ripe it is and how the cellar is managed.
Perry has a lighter colour than cider. The colour of mixed perry and cider depends on the ratio of apple to pear.
The alcoholic content is ca 6 % by volume.
A distinctive taste and a broad range of aromas arise from the different percentages of acid, alcohol, residual sugar and nutrients. In typical Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most, the Speckbirne makes the greatest contribution to the harmonious and mild taste.
In the region about 350,000 litres of perry and cider are produced every year.
Production guidelines and quality control:
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is produced according to the Austrian Wine Act 1999 (BGBl. I 141/1999) for the production of pome fruit wine and according to the quality guidelines of the Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most Region of Delight association.
Every year, voluntary quality control takes place at perry and cider tastings during which the acid content, the taste, the appearance and the aroma are inspected. These inspections are carried out by perry and cider sommeliers as well as the members of the association themselves.
- Marketing:
Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is available throughout the year depending on the supply.
Connection to the geographic area and traditional knowledge
- The special soil and climatic conditions in the area of
cultivation are optimal for extensive culture of apple
and pear trees in extensive orchards.
- In harmony with the native soil: Hausruck fruit trees
have been propagated in the region for hundreds of
years and have become optimally adapted to
the specific regional geography.
- Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is produced from different traditional apple and pear
varieties that have been developed over hundreds of years.
- Thanks to the method of cultivation and the special geographical conditions,
perry and cider can be produced that have an exceptional taste.
- The complex taste and aroma of Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is directly related
to the region’s humid and mild climate.
- The production of Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most is the result of traditional knowledge
that has been passed on by people working in this field (adaptation of the
cultivation methods to the environmental conditions, selection of local varieties,
propagation through seed and suckers, genetic improvement, harvesting
know-how, pressing, perry and cider fermentation) and the marketing expertise
of buyers and retailers.
- Utilisation:
Photo: BMLFUW/Rita Newman
Natural fruit juice, sparkling wine, cider, schnaps, liqueurs and dried fruit are also produced. Fruit wine chocolate, apple chips or jam complete the product range.
- Protection:
-
Key Words
Food and agriculture, traditional knowledge. Austria, region, Upper Austria, Hausruck, Hausruck-Mostlandl, Hausruck perry and apple cider, perry cider, apple cider, apple wine, perry wine, fruit wine
Bibliography / References
- 24 Mitgliedsgemeinden
http://www.mostlandl-hausruck.at/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=4&Itemid=7
- Bundesland Oberösterreich
http://www.wanderreiten-in-oberoesterreich.info/main_pages/ooe.htm
- Das Hausruckviertel & die Vitalwelt Hausruck im Voralpenland
http://austria-direkt.at/bl4/reg10.php
- Das Presshaus
http://www.mostmuseum.at/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3&Itemid=4
- Frisches Obst und konservierte Früchte im Küchenalltag
http://www.ooegeschichte.at/Obst_und_konservierte_Fruechte.1171.0.html
- Fruchtsaft in NÖ
http://www.soschmecktnoe.at/pdf_files/noe_fruchtsaft.pdf
- Franz Maier-Bruck: Vom Essen auf dem Lande, S. 304f.
- Fruchtsaftverordnung, BGBl. II Nr. 83/2004
http://www.sbg.ac.at/ver/links/bgbl/2004b083.pdf
- Grün im Dorf
http://www.land-oberoesterreich.gv.at/cps/rde/xbcr/SID-3DCFCFC3-7951BDBE/ooe/bau_gruenimdorf2.pdf
- Hausruck
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hausruck
- Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most
http://www.genuss-region.at/article/archive/14374
- Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most: Produkt
http://www.genuss-region.at/article/archive/15213
- Hausruck Birn-Apfel-Most: Region
http://www.genuss-region.at/article/archive/15076
- Hausruck Mostlandl
http://www.mostrezepte.at/haupt.cfm?MenuId=13
- Hausruckviertel
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hausruckviertel
- Hausruckviertel
http://www.aeiou.at/aeiou.encyclop.h/h309278.htm
- Hausruck - Mostlandl
http://www.mostrezepte.at/haupt.cfm?MenuId=13
- Hausruckviertel
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hausruckviertel
- Most
http://www.ooegeschichte.at/Most.390.0.html
- Most
http://www.genussland.at/produkte/oberoesterreich-schmankerl/1106604/most.html
- Mostlandl: Philosophie
http://www.mostlandl.at/ge_philosophie.asp
- Mostlandl-Hausruck: Region
http://www.mostlandl-hausruck.at/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=73&Itemid=71
- Obsthügelland: Träumen unter Obstbäumen
http://www.obsthuegelland.at/index.php?id=1&no_cache=1&L=0
- Oö Mostkulturgeschichte
http://www.mostland-oberoesterreich.at/alles_mostkultur1.html
- Raumeinheit Hausruck-Kobernusswald
http://www.land-oberoesterreich.gv.at/cps/rde/xbcr/SID-0722815D-482A12E7/ooe/Hausruck_und_Kobernausserwald.pdf
- Raumeinheit Inn- und Hausruckviertel Hügelland
http://www.land-oberoesterreich.gv.at/cps/rde/xbcr/SID-0722815D-482A12E7/ooe/Inn-_und_Hausruckviertler_Huegelland.pdf
- Regionalverband Mostlandl-Hausruck
http://www.mostlandl-hausruck.at/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=52&Itemid=43
- So wird Most gemacht!
http://www.mostlandl-hausruck.at/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=56&Itemid=58
- Wie sie sich ihr Paradiesgärtlein schufen
http://www.mostland-oberoesterreich.at/alles_mostkultur1.html
- Weingesetz 1999, BGBl. I Nr. 87/2005
http://www.api.or.at/akis/download/gestze/weingesetz%20bgbl%2087%202005.pdf
All internet references last accessed on 29 June 2009.
Language Code
German
Product of www.genuss-region.at
Yes
Regional contact
Mag. Ursula Wastlbauer
Industriestraße 28
7410 Grieskirchen
Mobile: 0699/17330007
E-mail: leader@mostlandl-hausruck.at
http://www.mostlandl.at
Authors: Daniela Trenker, Eva Sommer, Erhard Höbaus
07.02.2012, Lebensministerium III/4